Dedicate a corner of the garden to an aerobic dry compost stack. In the example, the stack has been contained in a wire mesh. This assists with the air flow, necessary for aerobic composting.
Unlike a closed compost bin, with one like this, it is just a matter of tipping the scraps in. A sign inviting people to contribute and advising them of what should and shouldn't be put in the bin is important.
The compost stack should have a volume of 1cubic meter that is be a meter in width and a meter in height.
Meat and Fish are a problem in an open compost stack, because these attract blow flies, which are a natural, but undesirable way, to break these down. So, a compost bin or worm farm could be used for these. However, the reality is these are messy and less likely to be used.
If heavy feeding plants are planted around the bin this works well. In the past I have had a good crop of Citrus (though fruit fly can be a problem) when the compost heap was at the base of the tree.
Consider positioning a compost stack in the middle of a rose bed. It is also worth noting that Fish (scales in particular) and its wash water, are a very high source of Phosphate and that these scraps could be dug into a bed of Roses (but keep them away from Australian Natives).
In wet weather, if the stack gets too soggy, Newspaper or dried leaves can be added. But this is really unnecessary. It isn't necessary to wet the stack either.
If you have a non-toxic garden, after a while, you will notice that the compost heap will be integrated into the garden's ecosystem. Birds and skinks will eat the maggots and flies.
Author: Marghanita da Cruz
Email: marghanita@ramin.com.au
www.ramin.com.au/eco-sydney/composting.shtml © Ramin Communications 2007. Last modified 5 September 2007.
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